Are you aerating your turf then filling the holes with sand? Then you're missing an opportunity to greatly improve the water holding capacity of your soil.

In part 18 of our Drought Solutions video series, you'll see why many green industry professionals are moving from sand to Turface, a calcined clay product that allows you to hold more water in the root zone.

Video Transcript

So how do we get from a collapse of soil plates that are all stacked and stuck on each other and we can't get any water and nutrients into it? How do we get from here to a soil now that has microbes in it, that has some enzymes, has some beneficials, has some organics in there?

What's our one way, especially in turf, that we can incorporate into that profile without digging out all that turf, tilling the soil, putting all of our stuff in and putting turf down? How would we go about doing that?

Hopefully we do it at least once a year. Aerate. You're absolutely right. So we're going to aerate. After we aerate, what do we do for the existing holes that are left there?

Traditionally everybody filled them with sand. Sand's cheap. Put sand in those holes. You see putting greens? They sand em. Fairways. They sand em. Sports turf, now landscape turf is not sanding anymore.

How Turface Works

They're putting in a product called Turface. That's a calcined clay product and we're going to talk about it because the reason we use it is because it holds moisture.

Sand has no nutrient value. This has no nutrient value. Sand has zero water holding capacity. How much water does the beach hold? None. The beach won't hold water. Sand has no water holding capacity.

This is a calcined clay. They bake it. That's what makes it into a ceramic. It's a real durable product that doesn't break down. This is the beauty of it. 74% of it is porous. It'll absorb 90% of its weight in water and release it slowly back to the soil profile.

That's why I like this product a lot. Cause now it's gonna take all that nutrient, it's gonna take all that water, and it's gonna hold it in the root zone. Now we got massive amounts of roots, we've got water held in the root zone, our soil is working for us. Our drought tolerance on that turf really grows.

So where they want to take out turf on your properties, you say wait a minute. Let's start working the soil, let's start working your irrigation system, let's save you water by having better, healthier soil. So not only is it going to hold water, but it's gonna help get that water into the soil profile. So everything we talked about, about getting water to the turf surface, getting water to the turf surface.

Now we're doing it at the right rates. Now we can get it to where it needs to go. It needs to be able to get into the soil. Now your water moisture distribution is better and it will improve your drainage because now your soil has the ability to let some water go.

It looks sort of like this. You've got your soil particle, you've got air, you've got water in there. Your Turface is totally part of that soil profile now. You almost build that ideal crummy soil because the product is getting in there and it's holding the nutrients. It's holding all of the airspace. It's increasing the porosity of that soil. All things that we need to have.

An Example of Turface at Work

Here's an example. Here's bermudagrass on native soil, no amendment. All planted the same time. All cared for the same time. Here it is on 50% sand on native soil. Here's your root structure. Here it is with 20% Turface added to that soil. Holding the nutrients in the soil profile. Look at how much deeper you can water. How much deeper it's pulling those roots down in.

Having trouble getting a good result with your turf, plants, or flowers? An underdeveloped or damaged root system may be the cause.

In part 17 of our Drought Solutions video series, we’ll look at a common misconception that most people have about roots, how mycorrhizal fungi forms a symbiotic relationship with plants, and 7 reasons to use Mycorrhizae on the properties you manage.

Video Transcript

How do the nutrients and microbes get into the plant?

This is a microscopic view of a root. Most people think the root is the piece of the plant that soaks up the water. The root is actually just the anchoring device. That's the device that holds that plant in the ground, whether its turf or whether it's a tree. The root is the anchor.

The root hair - something that we can't see - if these hairs are damaged and/or the soil around on them is so bound up with salts that the microbes and the nutrient load can't get into these root hairs, the soil's not doing anything for you.

You can plant and plants and plant on that soil and you won't get any results out of it because your nutrients can't get into the plant. Your nutrients are bound up in the soil particle and there's no way for them to get in.

So we are trying to always build bigger, better root systems. Bigger, better root systems whether it's in our flower beds, whether it's in our turf plots, whether it's in our trees. The bigger, better roots you get, the more drought resistant that plant's gonna be. No matter what plant it is.

What are Mycorrhizal Fungi?

So, how can we do that? Has anybody ever heard of mycorrhizal? Mycorrhizal fungi.

What it is it's a naturally occurring beneficial fungi that forms a symbiotic relationship with the plants. So what this mycorrhizae does is once you get it into your soil profile, it gets on all of these root hairs and it expands that root hair. And not only does it expand that root hair, but now it grows because it feeds on the roots. It pulls starches and sugars from the plant so that the mycorrhizae can stay alive. That fungi can stay alive. So it starts building in the soil profile and it makes these roots stronger, better, healthier.

It comes in a couple different forms. Here's a $26 packet of a water soluble. So you could syringe that or it comes in a granular. You can syringe that into your soul profile. If you want flowers to just blow up out of the planter bed and look crazy and produce like crazy, that's a great product to start with.

7 Benefits of Mycorrhizae

So what it does: here's a plant without mycorrhizae and here's a plant with it. Planted exactly the same time. One of the soil plots had mycorrhizae, the other one didn't. Obviously this one did.  It puffs up those roots. It gives us this what they call mycorrhizal hyphae and I'll look at that in the next slide.

You improve the plant establishment and growth. Obviously, the better the root structure, the stronger, the healthier, the more the plants gonna grow.

Increases your nutrient and water uptake. It's gonna take that water that would normally leach past it. It's going to soak it up and now it's gonna store it in its own roots. So it gives that plant more drought tolerance.

Improved disease resistance because now we got a real healthy root structure.

Assists in weed suppression. This is where in your turf plot, if you've got all of this mycorrhizae and you've got all these roots forming this big mass underneath your turf plot. And a weed comes in and it tries to get dominance, the turf's already got dominance over it. That weed's not going to survive.

Improves your soil structure because now those roots are going down and they're getting into that soil profile and they're creating pore space.

You get more blossoms, more fruit, and more top growth. And the top growth here is not like you're gonna get spikes in turf growth like you do when you put a straight synthetic fertilizer on and you get that huge spike where the guys are mowing hay for a couple weeks.

You get a real nice even top growth. So you're not going to get spikes in growth. Cause spikes in the turf growth are very, very detrimental to your turf. It's a huge stress on the turf.

So what the mycorrhizae does is it forms this cotton ball like mass underneath these roots and around these roots. So here's your roots that are your structure, that are holding this plant in place and then all of this what they call mycorrhizal hyphae is those roots expanding out. They form like this cotton ball mass around these roots and their feeding from the roots but they're also taking and gathering nutrients up for that plant.

Want green, healthy turf in the spring? Then you must fertilize correctly in the fall!

Fall fertilization of turfgrass is extremely important, especially for cool season turfgrasses like Tall Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, and Perennial Rye. If you've been neglecting some of your lawns this summer, now is the time to get them back in shape!

This cheat sheet covers the role of fall fertilizer in programs for both warm season grasses and cool season grasses and when overseeding for winter. We'll also look at recommended fertilizer formulations separated by region.

Fertilizing Warm Season Grasses

Common species: Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, and St. Augustine grass.

Where they grow: Southern U.S., e.g. Florida, Arizona, southern Texas, and southern California.

Seasonal growth pattern: These grasses grow actively starting in spring and through the summer. In most cases, they go completely dormant in winter unless they're overseeded with a cool season grass.

Fertilizing in fall: With warm season turf, it’s important to stick with fertilizing in the spring and summer, tapering off in fall.

These grasses often go dormant in the winter. So when warm season grasses are fertilized with applications of quick release nitrogen too late into the fall, their tissues are likely to become tender rather than harden off in preparation for the colder temperatures. This can result in damage to the turf and a poor spring recovery out of dormancy.

However a properly timed application of slow release nitrogen plus high potassium can aid in carbohydrate storage for the winter and increase turf density, meaning better spring recovery and defense against weed infestation.

Fertilizing Cool Season Grasses

Common species: Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, Bent Grass, Tall Fescue.

Where they grow: In true seasonal climates and coastal, temperate regions.

Seasonal growth pattern: These grasses grow most actively in the spring and in the fall. In true seasonal climates, particularly those that receive snow, these grasses go dormant during the winter. In a lot of coastal, more temperate regions, they will still grow through the winter, but typically a lot slower than in the spring and in the fall.

Fertilizing in fall: For cool season grasses, the fall fertilization is the most critical. If you only have one time you COULD fertilize each year, THIS should be it. A proper “Winterizer” containing slow release nitrogen aids in carbohydrate storage, resulting in a strong root system that is less susceptible to winter damage.

If the turf is still actively growing when winter comes, it’s ok to continue fertilizing, but it’s not really that important to overall turf health. It’s more about keeping the turf green and your customer happy.

Fertilization Timing When Overseeding

When overseeding warm season grasses like Bermuda with a different cool season turf (usually Perennial Ryegrass) to maintain color during the winter, it can be a challenge to time the fertilization both in fall and the following spring.

You need to get the Ryegrass down in early fall and the last thing you want is the Bermuda to continue growing as you're establishing the Ryegrass. At the same time, any new seed that you put down to keep your turf green through the winter months is going to need starter fertilizer to promote root growth and establishment. To successfully transition from one growing season to the other, the taper down period of the Bermuda is a period you’ll want to avoid fertilizing. Let that really die down so that your Ryegrass can come in with success.

Then once the spring comes around, it’s very hard for the Bermuda to start its upswing if the Ryegrass is still actively growing. You'll want to avoid fertilizing in that late spring window so the Ryegrass can slow down.

In the end, properly timing fertilization when overseeding isn’t just about the right times to fertilize, but also knowing the right times to avoid fertilizing.

Recommended Fall Fertilizer Formulations by Region

Arizona & Nevada

TurfGro 6-20-20 ProStarter

• Contains high phosphorus, which is essential for root growth and strong development of the plant, and low nitrogen to prevent burning new seedlings.
• Phosphorus naturally existing in the soil is immobile and unreachable by small roots, so a high-phosphorus fertilizer should always be applied at or shortly after planting.

TurfGro 21-0-7 Cool Season

• Maintain turf vigor throughout the cold months with this high nitrogen fertilizer, of which 10% is nitrate nitrogen for quick green-up.
• Compare to Turf Royale – same Nitrogen content but also with non-staining Iron for dark green color!

California

TurfGro 21-2-15 Winterizer

• 50% slow release nitrogen (from XCU and XRT) provides turf with sustained feeding from fall into winter.
• High potassium strengthens plant structure and builds winter stress resistance.
• Wolf Trax Iron provides immediate and residual feeding, with little to no stain potential.

TurfGro 6-20-10 ProStarter

• Contains high phosphorus, which is essential for root growth and strong development of the plant, and low nitrogen to prevent burning new seedlings.
• Phosphorus naturally existing in the soil is immobile and unreachable by small roots, so a high-phosphorus fertilizer should always be applied at or shortly after planting.

 Colorado

TurfGro 21-2-15 Winterizer

• 50% slow release nitrogen (from XCU and Nutralene) provides turf with sustained feeding from fall into winter.
• High potassium strengthens plant structure and builds winter stress resistance.
• Non-staining iron provides deep green color.

TurfGro 15-15-15 Plant Pro

• A balanced fertilizer appropriate for seeding applications.
• Phosphorus naturally existing in the soil is immobile and unreachable by small roots, so a high-phosphorus fertilizer should always be applied at or shortly after planting.

Florida

TurfGro 16-0-8 Florida Turf

• The university recommended analysis for Florida lawns
• 50% slowly available Nitrogen from XCU polymer-coated-sulfur-coated urea provides uniform growth and sustained feeding
• Phosphorus-free formulation poses a lower risk of nutrient runoff to water sources and does not encourage weed germination
• High iron for additional quick color without flush growth

TurfGro 24-0-11 Florida Premium Turf

• 50% slow release Nitrogen from XCU polymer-coated-sulfur-coated urea provides uniform growth and sustained feeding
• Controlled release Nitrogen reduces the number of applications required, lowering labor and product costs
• Phosphorus-free formulation poses a lower risk of nutrient runoff to water sources and does not encourage weed germination

TurfGro 8-2-12 Premium Palm

• Specialty fertilizer formulated with a complete minors package to meet the needs of palms and other tropical plants
• Contains Kieserite – A controlled-release Magnesium source, which is university recommended to treat Magnesium deficiencies common in palms
• Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium sources are polymer-coated, ensuring sustained feeding and low burn potential

 Idaho & Eastern Washington

TurfGro 21-0-15 Winterizer

• 50% slow release nitrogen (from XCU and XRT)vprovides turf with sustained feeding from fall into winter.
• High potassium strengthens plant structure and builds winter stress resistance.
• Wolf Trax Iron provides immediate and residual feeding, with little to no stain potential.
• Phosphorus-free formulation meets WA regulation and does not encourage winter weed establishment.

TurfGro 12-8-6 Starter

• 50% organic-based starter fertilizer, with 2.5% of the nitrogen from organic sources.
• Ideal formula to promote proper development of new lawns and seedlings in overseed applications

Texas

TurfGro 22-8-15 Winterizer

• 63% slow release Nitrogen from XCU polymer-sulfur-coated urea provides sustained feeding from fall through winter, with emphasis on root—not shoot—development
• High potassium strengthens plant structure and builds winter stress resistance

TurfGro 5-5-20 Winterizer

• A low Nitrogen, high Potassium fertilizer best suited for fall application to St. Augustine lawns.

TurfGro 15-15-15 Plant Pro

• A balanced fertilizer appropriate for seeding applications.
• Phosphorus naturally existing in the soil is immobile and unreachable by small roots, so a high-phosphorus fertilizer should always be applied at or shortly after planting.

Microbes help build turf that can withstand weeds and drought conditions. In Part 16 of our Drought Solutions video series, we'll cover 6 microbial benefits and how those benefits directly contribute to both soil and plant health.

Video Transcript

Microbial benefits in that soil profile. They stimulate existing soil microbes. Once you're established, you improve that bio-energy foundation.

That just means that now the inputs that we're putting into the soil are working for us at all times and the more organics that you're going through, the more energy, the more food sources that are there, the better it is for that soil to stay alive. It becomes stronger.

Your nutrient and water efficiencies, your holding capacity of that soil is much better. You reduce your disease and stress problems. Cause what's the first thing that comes in when you have a stressed area of turf?

Weeds. With healthy turf, you combat the weeds. So now you don't have any weeds. No weeds, a lot less stress on the plant, and your disease problem goes away.

Most diseases that you have in your turf plots were introduced by a foreign like a weed, something else. The turf varities that we have today are pretty disease-resistant. Back in the old days, you'd have real problems with disease. Today we've bred most of those out of our turf. So if there's a disease or a stress problem in there, it's usually brought in by a weed.

Improve your soil aggregation. Along with that, now you get a bio-diversity in your soil. So soil aggregation, you got your clay soil over here that's pretty bound up. You got my soil over here in Phoenix that's just this granite gravelly looking stuff. We like to have that soil sorta right in the middle and we call that a crummy soil. It's good, but it's crummy.

And a crummy soil is that soil that when you go and you grab a handful of it - if you go to a farm, if you go to a guy's agriculture field, the farmers they work their soil cause they understand this completely. The yield on their crop is directly based on how well their soil is prepared. And you go grab that soil and it's real nice, it falls apart in your hand. It's got some structure. It's got a little bit of moisture in it, but it falls apart. That's a real good soil.

With that soil aeration and aggregation, you get really, really enhanced rooting. And that's what we're all about, we need to get that root mass down into that soil profile. The bigger the root system in your soil profile, the better water holding capacity you have, the more drought resistant that plant is going to become.

With each plant being able to produce 100 seeds in as little as 8 weeks, poa annua can aggressively infest your turf before you know it.

Once a few plants become established in turf or ornamental areas, poa can spread rapidly and quickly lead to severe infestations. What's worse is that poa annua is often too much like the surrounding desired turf to remove without harming the rest of lawn.

This article focuses on how to identify poa annua, the lifecycle and environmental impact of the weed, best practices for managing it, and 18 recommended treatment options.

Identification:

Poa annua (annual ryegrass) is light green, with flattened stems and boat-shaped leaf tips. It's fairly weak, has a shallow root system, and grows well in moist areas with full sun. Poa also does well in semi-shaded conditions.

In moderate temperature areas where turf is frequently irrigated, poa annua can persist all year, but it usually dies out in the summer heat. It grows to a height of 6 to 8 inches if left un-mowed and has a flowering structure is 1 to 4 inches in length.

Life Cycle & Environmental Impact:

Poa annua starts germinating in late summer or early fall, as soil temperatures fall below 70° F.

A prolific seed producer, it will continue to germinate throughout winter with several flushes. Each plant can produce 100 seeds in as few as 8 weeks and poa can survive mowing heights of less than 1" and still reseed days after mowing.

In winter, poa annua is more competitive than many turfgrass species and severe infestations can develop as seeds are spread by mowing, foot traffic, birds, and cultivation. In the cool season, it grows faster than warm-season turf, which can give the lawn an andulating or irregular surface in as little as 2 days after mowing.

Best Practices for Managing Poa Annua

Applying a pre-emergent herbicide is the most effective way to control poa annua and many other annual weeds. Pre-emergent creates a barrier BELOW the surface so sprouting seeds cannot push their way up.

Pre-emergent must be applied over an ENTIRE AREA to prevent seeds from germinating and herbicide MUST be applied BEFORE poa annua germinates to be effective. In many regions, the rule of thumb is to apply pre-emergent by September 15th, but time your application just prior to fall rains and when soil temperatures drop below 70º F.

Remember, pre-emergent does NOT control existing weeds and hand-weeding of poa is futile. New flushes of seedlings will only germinate after older ones are removed.

Selective post-emergent control is difficult – poa annua is too much LIKE the surrounding desired turf to remove without harming the rest of the lawn. Besides, there are more seeds just waiting to germinate, so post-emergent control would be constant.

In addition to properly using pre-emergent, there are a number of cultural practices that can help you avoid infestations:

• Do not over-fertilize; Phosphorus encourages seedling development.
• Do not overwater, especially in shady areas.
• Maintain healthy plants & overseed open spots, as dense plantings make establishment of seedlings difficult.
• Clean equipment before moving from infested to weed-free areas.
• Reduce soil compaction.

18 Recommended Treatment Options

Sprayable Formulations

1. PRODIAMINE 65WDG

• Longest-lasting
• Lowest application rates means most cost effective – A 5 lb jug treats up to 10 acres
• Non-Staining
• Barricade Equivalent

2. SURFLAN

• Popular for beds
• Not safe for cool-season turf
• Great tank-mix with Roundup for pre+post
• Orange in color
• 2.5 gallon jug treats 2.5 – 5 acres

3. TIP: Tank Mix with ISOXABEN DF (Gallery)

• Does NOT control Poa, but mixed w/ Surflan or Prodiamine, it will also prevent a large list of broadleaf weeds
• 1 lb jar treats 0.75 – 1.5 acres

Granular Formulations

1. OXADIAZON 2G

• Popular granular formulation
• Ronstar 2G Equivalent
• 50 lb bag covers 11,000 – 22,000 sq ft

2. DIMENSION .25G

• Best known for spring applications, to also control already-emerged crabgrass
• 40 lb bag covers 9,000 – 17,000 sq ft

3. T/I 2.5G (TRIFLURALIN/ISOXABEN)

• Controls more Grassy AND Broadleaf weeds than any other pre-emergent herbicide
• Snapshot Equivalent
• 50 lb bag covers 10,000 – 21,000 sq ft

PLUS FERTILIZER

TurfGro 12-4-16 w/ Barricade

• Excellent Fall Fertilizer formula plus pre-emergent weed control in 1 Step
• 20% Slow Release
• 50 lb bag covers 8,000 – 12,000 sq ft

SMALL PACKAGING

• ProDeuce – Prodiamine + Glyphosate for Pre + Post Control in 1 Step.
• Weed Impede – Small package Surflan
• Vegetable & Ornamental Weeder – Small Package Treflan

OTHER PRODUCTS

• Oxadiazon 50 WSB
• Dithiopyr 40 WSB
• Pendulum (EC & Aquacap)
• OB 2G / XL 2G
• Treflan
• Casoron 4G
• Corn Gluten/Pre-Merge (Organic)
• TurfGro 15-3-5 w/ Dimension

If you're using synthetic fertilizers on your customers' turf, you're slowly killing the beneficial bacteria that build the soil. In part 15 of our Drought Solution video series, you'll learn how the nutrient and nitrogen cycles work and how they directly contribute to soil and plant health.

Video Transcript

Does everybody know what nutrient cycling in the soil is? Has anybody ever heard of the nitrogen cycle?

Almost exactly the same concept. You'll hear it as nutrient cycling or nitrogen cycle and here's how it works.

You have plant material up top. You have us as humans and the atmosphere up here putting inputs into the soil.

But let's start right here at the natural level. Plant material, organic matter, mulching mowing, and all of those plants that you put back into the soil.

What happens is these little jellybean looking characters here, that are all around here in the soil, in a healthy soil. These are the beneficial bacteria, the fungi, the mycorrhizae. All of these little decomposers that take this organic material and they convert it.

As they're feeding on that organic, all these little guys use that as their food source, their energy source. As they feed on that, what do we produce?

Ammonium nitrate in a non-synthetic form. This is how Mother Nature keeps the forest green.

We're producing it naturally as we continue to build that soil. If we decide that we're going to put a synthetic in here, what it does is it starts killing all these guys. Cause these guys don't react to salt at all. These guys do not like salt. So we start killing them off and then this whole cycle is disrupted and you get a collapse of soil.

If we add in organic inputs here, now we're making these guys stronger. And the stronger they get, the more they multiply. The better they're working for us in our soil profile, the more ammonium nitrates they're making. The more nutrients we have in our soil, the better our plants look.

In Part 14 of our Drought Solutions video series, you’ll learn how organic fertilizers are able to boost the microbial activity and bio-reserves in your soil's profile.

Video Transcript

When you're talking about an organic, we're totally talking about nutrient management, keeping your microbial activity alive, and then having the carbon or bio-reserves in that soil so that those microbes can regenerate and regenerate and keep going.

We've got a study going on in Phoenix right now on bermudagrass, where for the past 6 years, we've done organic inputs. It got mowed with a mulching mower. So we're mulching that back in and it got organic inputs for a full 6 years and then just standard irrigation.

In the past 2 years, the only thing they stopped was the organic inputs. For 2 years now, that turf plot has been mowed, mulched, mulch mowed and irrigated and that turf plot still looks phenomenal.

I gave it 6 months. Ah yeah, 6 months you'll need more nutrients. What's going on now is that the microbial activity is taking that mulch mowing and starting that whole regeneration process. So what happens with organics vs. synthetics is as time goes on, your soil gets better and better and it starts working for you so now you have to have less inputs and less inputs.

The Key Benefits of Organic Fertilizer

Organic benefits. Obviously, it provides energy for the microbial buildup. We've talked about that. It increases the organic content to enhance the soil structure, water and nutrient retention.

As the soil gets better, it holds more water and nutrients. As that soil profile holds more water and nutrients, it's not just running off across the curb cause we can't get any water in it. It's not just straight leaching all the way through.

It's holding that water. Now the soil is acting as your reservoir and you've got a much, much longer cycle in between your irrigations and less water. You saved it. Less nutrient input, saving money.

That water holding, that reservoir. Healthy plants use less water. Healthy soils hold more water for those plants.

5 Ways Carbon Based Products Improve Soil Health

Carbon based products. As you get that carbon and that organic in the soil profile working, it doesn't want to leach out. It won't leach out because the soil is now working for you and it stays there.
 
Adds energy. Rich diet to tired soils. So as you're putting carbon based products in there, now those collapsed soils are getting a little reserve to come back. They're getting stronger.

Builds up that microbe. Stabilizes the root zone. We'll talk about why that happens here in a minute. It improves the nutrient and water retention in that soil and promotes rooting and lateral growth.

Now that we have air space. Now that we have water space. Now that we have pour space built into that soil, now your roots can go deeper. Deep infrequent watering, healthier plants, better root structure. And we're going to talk about how to build some root structure.

Knowing Your Company … Every Number Tells a Story

Every decision you make - every management move - is captured on your company’s financial statements. Looking at and analyzing the numbers and trends on your financial statements regularly is the best way to assess the impact and results of the decisions you make. 

Every single number on your financial statements provides tremendous insight into the history of your company and the financial health of your business. They are a window to your company's past and its performance. And while it’s important to know the past for history and a sense of nostalgia, it is even more important to know the past and use it as a predictor of the future. 

The financial statements of your company are an incredibly powerful tool you can use to chart a course for your company's future. Setting financial goals and monitoring financial performance are critical for any company to succeed. But first, owners and managers must get to know the numbers and the story behind each one. 

Analyzing Financial Statements in 3 Steps

The process of analyzing statements does not need to be cumbersome. It doesn't need to be time consuming. And, it doesn't need to be left for the professional accountant, advisor, or banker. 

If growing a business that’s profitable year after year is important to you, YOU must have a firm understanding of the financial picture and position of your business. After all, it is YOUR business. YOU make the decisions that impact the financial results because YOU are the one that will benefit from sound decisions and suffer from less-solid ones.

Sound financial decisions can be made by following these 3 steps:

What Financial Statements Show You about Your Business

Financial statements are the report card of your company and can provide incredibly meaningful insight into the questions:
• Where has my company been?
• Where is my company today? 
• And most importantly, Where will my company be tomorrow? 

Financial statements can provide answers to the following key considerations for success:
• Where does all the cash go?
• Can I afford to grow and expand?
• How are sales moving and what is driving the changes in revenue?
• What is my company’s break-even point?
• What is really driving my company’s profits?
• Is my return as an owner commensurate with my level of financial risk?
• Does our service deliver the standards our customers expect?

Through a partnership with Horizon and a series of on-line articles, we will be providing answers to these important questions. We will give you tools to help you grow your company, improve your cash flow, and increase your profits. We will provide financial tools for real success. 

Remember: Every number tells a story. What’s yours?

Mike Whitlock, MBA is President of Tannian Consulting, Inc., a recognized leader in financial, marketing, and strategic planning services, training, and consulting. Mike develops and delivers practical financial programs for business owners, managers, and advisors, specializing in financial management and strategic planning.

Synthetic fertilizers can successfully deliver some nutrients to your customer's turf, but repeated use may also cause significant damage to the soil. In Part 13 of our Drought Solutions video series, you’ll see how synthetic fertilizers can affect carbon levels, destroy microbial activity, and ultimately lead to a complete soil collapse.

Video Transcript

Water management begins with carbon based natural fertilizers. Does everybody understand that statement? That means it's an organic fertilizer. Carbon based natural fertilizers.

Traditionally, stress is a result of synthetic fertilizers. High stress cause we're adding salts to that soil profile. The more salt we add, the harder it is for the plant to uptake that water because the salts are in the way blocking the nutrients.

You get rooting issues. We'll never get the density of this putting green using synthetics.

The one thing that golf course managers know is that organic fertilizers building their soil give them phenomenal density. Now the reason we'll never get as dense or we'll get the quality of a golf course is because we physically don't have the time to mow every one of our properties every day at 1/32". Density comes with frequent mowing at real tight, tight increments.

How Synthetic Fertilizers Affect the Soil Profile

In a synthetic fertilizer, you're going to get a little bit of nutrient management, but it's very little.

Synthetic fertilizers totally destroy your microbial activity in your soil. The microbes that are doing all of the work in a good soil profile get knocked out by salts. They just are not happy and you end up getting a soil collapse in the end.

And the reason is, is because your carbon levels in that soil profile are reduced. When you have reduced carbon levels, you have reduced bacterial activity because the carbon is what all the microbes feed on. That's their only energy source. And once you don't have any microbial activity and the carbon is gone, you get a complete soil structure collapse.

Soil structure collapse looks like that picture where the soil was all cracked earlier. There's virtually nothing there. It looks like that clay soil that was real muddy and soupy, where you don't have any nutrient flow throughout it. There's no airflow. That's a soil structure collapse.

A lot of the pictures that our water purveyors are showing now. Where that lake was all the way down to nothing and you get all that cracked soil and everything shrinking up. That's a soil collapse. Just because there's no nutrient load in it whatsoever.

Fall is the best time to overseed with cool season turf varieties. Overseeding can significantly improve a lawn's appearance and enhance its ability to fight insects and diseases, but it's important to recognize that the term “overseeding” actually describes 2 different cultural practices:

1. Overseeding thin lawns. Also referred to as “interseeding”. This is the process of adding more seed to existing turf to fill in bare or thin areas.

2. Winter overseeding of Bermudagrass or other warm-season lawns. This is the process of seeding with a different “winter” grass (usually Perennial Ryegrass), to provide temporary cover over dormant turf. It is more common in inland desert areas.

In this article, we'll look at the proper steps involved in both practices.

How to Overseed an Existing Thin Lawn

When the existing turf is thin or bare, applying new seed within the proper growing windows can make a big difference in the turf's appearance. You'll want to seed when several weeks of good growing conditions will follow. For cool-season lawns such as Tall Fescue, September through October is ideal, and early to mid-spring is also acceptable.

Follow These 7 Steps When Overseeding a Thin Lawn:

1. Aerate the turf before overseeding.

2. Mow the grass lower than usual, but DO NOT SCALP IT. You are only trying to open up the turf canopy.

3. Remove clippings to help the seed reach the soil.

4. Add new topsoil to low-lying bare spots or over visible tree roots.

5. Broadcast the seed or work it into the soil.

6. New seeds need Phosphorus (the middle number in NPK Formulations) to promote root growth and establishment. Apply a fertilizer high in Phosphorus like TurfGro 6-20-10 ProStarter Fertilizer.

7. Lightly cover seed with 1/8–1/4 inch of fine mulch or seed topper to maintain moisture and warmth, and protect the seed from birds.

Winter Overseeding

Overseeding a "winter" grass into a warm-season lawn like bermudagrass can be a challenge. The key is to effectively slow down your warm season turf so that it's not competing with the new winter grass (usually Perennial Ryegrass) that you're trying to establish. This is done by overseeding once nighttime temperatures are around 65 degrees or lower, and by cutting back on fertilization and watering prior to overseeding. 

Before Overseeding:

1. Perform your last aggressive dethatching of warm-season turf 6 weeks before the overseed date.

2. Stop all nitrogen fertilization 4 weeks before.

3. Stop mowing 10 days before.

4. Decrease water by 50% 1 week before.

5. Drop mowing height by 1/3 3 to 4 days before.

Day of Overseeding:

6. Drop mowing height by 1/3 again.

7. Remove clippings to open the turf canopy to the soil.

8. Broadcast the seed at the proper application rade. Overseeding of bermuda generally requires 10-14 lbs per 1000 sq ft.

9. New seeds need Phosphorus (the middle number in NPK Formulations) to promote root growth and establishment. Apply a fertilizer high in phosphorus like TurfGro 6-20-10 ProStarter Fertilizer.

10. Lightly cover the seed with 1/8-1/4 inch of fine mulch or seed topper.